I awoke to a slightly drizzly morning, wet enough that I wore a rain pancho but not so rainy that I was in danger of getting wet. I walked around the corner for pho cuon for breakfast – noodle rolls stuffed with beef and greens.

These were delicious with some hot sauce, dipped in fish sauce.

After a strong, sweet coffee I ventured east for a walk around Hoan Kiem Lake before losing myself in the Old Quarter.

I stopped at a hole-in-the wall soup joint called Pho Thin. I sat down and was quickly served up a bowl of pho bo, Hanoi’s ubiquitous beef noodle soup. No need to order at this place. They only serve one thing. The one option is a plate of a kind of fried dough bread sticks for dunking.

There were a few condiments – garlic and vinegar, limes – or maybe they were calamansis – chopped chilies, and a jar of a hot sauce concoction. I added a little of each. What a perfect lunch on a damp day.